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標題: | 有限厚度砂質底床上波浪通過潛堤之變形研究 Studies on Wave Transformation over Rigid Porous Medium on Sand Seabed of Finite Thickness |

作者: | 余建弘 Yu, Chien-Hung |

關鍵字: | submerged breakwater;離岸潛堤;mild slope equation;dispersion relationship;wave attenuation;pore pressure;緩坡方程式;散播關係;波浪衰減;孔隙壓力 |

出版社: | 土木工程學系所 |

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摘要: | The porous characteristics of the permeable submerged breakwater can reduced the energy of the incident waves. The porous construction also promotes the Ecology cicada chrysalis. Hence the submerged breakwater may prevent the coastal erosion and disaster. For the purpose to investigate the wave attenuation on the water surface elevation and the porous pressure in the sand bed when the waves pass through the submerged breakwater, we derive the analytic solution of wave interaction with a rigid porous medium above a poro-elastic sandy bottom of finite thickness. Then we extend the result to a new mild slope equation and establish a numerical model to analysis the wave transformation and the soil porous pressure when the waves pass through the submerged breakwater on the inclined sand bed. In the theorem, we apply the potential theorem and consider the inertial and friction effect of the flow in the rigid porous medium, while the soil response is based on the consolidation theorem. As results of the interaction among the waves, rigid porous medium and the elastic porous sand bed of finite thickness, the study obtains a new dispersion relationship in the complex type. The new dispersion relation includes the water depth, period, wave number and the parameters of the rigid and elastic porous medium. The analyzed result shows that different incident wave conditons and water depth will influence the wave attenuation. The wave attenuation will significantly occur when the porosity of the rigid porous medium or the poro-elastic medium increases. Moreover, increasing the relative thickness of the rigid porous medium and poro-elastic medium will also reduce the wave height and energy in the propagation. In this thesis, we also derived a new time-dependent mild slope equation to explore the transformation of wave height and the soil pore pressure as the waves passing over the permeable submerged breakwater, which includes the parameters of the rigid and elastic porous medium. The study discusses the influence of the wave transformation with the conditions of the sand bed, the submerged depth and height, width and friction of the submerged breakwater. We also discuss the distribution of the pore pressure under the submerged breakwater. Based on the numerical simulations, the larger wave decay is found over the breakwater. The height and width of the submerged breakwater increase, the wave decade more. The larger the friction coefficient and porosity are, the wave decay larger. For the coarse sand and fine sand conditions, the wave decay larger than in the impermeable bed condition. On the distribution of the soil pressure under the submerged breakwater, the maximum pore pressure forms on the front toe, then decay with the distance. The minimum pore pressure forms on the middle of the submerged breakwater. The subordination pore pressure forms on the rear toe. And the pore water pressure reduces beneath the breakwater as the height or width of submerged breakwater is larger, which are also found for the larger porosity or friction in the porous breakwater. The pore pressure in the fine sand bed is larger than in the coarse sand. 透水潛堤的孔隙結構特性可以消減入射波浪的能量，而其孔隙特性也兼具海洋生態復育的功能，因此離岸潛堤工法可應用於海岸侵蝕及海岸災害之防治。為了探討波浪通過潛堤時，水面波動的衰減與砂床中的孔隙壓力變化，本研究首先推導波浪、剛性孔隙介質與有限厚度彈性孔隙砂床間交互作用的解析解，再延伸推導新的緩坡方程式，建立數值模式以解析波浪通過斜坡砂質底床上潛堤時的波浪變形及土壤孔隙壓力變化。理論方面係應用勢能理論考慮剛性孔隙介質層中的水流的慣性效應與摩擦效應，而砂質反應則以壓密理論為基礎。由於考慮到波浪、剛性孔隙介質與有限厚度彈性孔隙砂床間交互作用，因此本文獲得一個新的複變型態的散播關係式，該關係式包含了水深、波浪週期、波數、剛性與彈性孔隙介質的特性參數。經由解析結果顯示，不同入射波浪條件與水深條件將影響波浪減衰。當剛性或彈性孔隙介質的孔隙率增加的時候，波浪衰減明顯增加。再者，增加剛性或彈性孔隙介質的相對厚度也會增進波浪的衰減。 基於水平底床之理論解析解，本文並推導含有剛性與孔彈性介質參數的時間相關緩坡方程式，建立數值模式以適用於斜坡底床上之透水潛堤情況的波浪變形解析。文中探討不同的砂質底床條件、潛堤的潛沒深度、潛堤高度、寬度、潛堤摩擦係數、孔隙率等對波浪變形的影響，文中並探討潛堤下方孔隙壓力的空間變化。數值解析結果顯示波浪行經潛堤上方時，波浪會發生明顯的減衰，而潛堤高度與寬度越大的時候，波浪的衰減越多。潛堤如具較大的摩擦係數及孔隙率，波浪的衰減也越大。粗砂或細砂底床相較於不透水底床，波浪之減衰會稍大。在潛堤下方之土壤孔隙壓力變化方面，前方堤趾處形成最大孔隙壓力然後遞減，在潛堤約中間部分有一最小孔隙壓力區，而在後堤趾處則有次高孔隙壓力。最大孔隙壓力隨著潛堤高度的增加而減少，潛堤的摩擦係數或孔隙率越大，孔隙壓力也越大。而細砂底床的孔隙壓力較粗砂底床者大 |

URI: | http://hdl.handle.net/11455/16406 |

其他識別: | U0005-0902201214484500 |

Appears in Collections: | 土木工程學系所 |

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