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標題: Calculations of wave transformation across the surf zone
作者: Tsai, C.P.
Chen, H.B.
Hsu, J.R.C.
關鍵字: wave transformation;surf zone;time-dependent mild-elope equation;energy dissipation factor;nonlinear wave shoaling;mild slope equation;propagation;model
Project: Ocean Engineering
期刊/報告no:: Ocean Engineering, Volume 28, Issue 8, Page(s) 941-955.
The accuracy of predicting wave transformation in the nearshore is very important to wave hydrodynamics, sediment transport and design of coastal structures. An efficient numerical model based on the time-dependent mild-slope equation is presented in this paper for the estimation of wave deformation across the surf zone. This model incorporates an approximate nonlinear shoaling formula and an energy dissipation factor due to wave breaking to improve the accuracy of the calculation of wave height deformation prior to wave breaking and also in the surf zone. The model also computes the location of first wave breaking, wave recovery and second wave breaking, if physical condition permits. Good agreement is found upon comparison with experimental data over several one-dimensional beach profiles, including uniform slope, bar and step profiles. (C) 2001 Elsevier Science Ltd. All rights reserved.
ISSN: 0029-8018
DOI: 10.1016/s0029-8018(00)00047-0
Appears in Collections:土木工程學系所

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